1937 Ford Standard Tudor Sedan
This will be a complete, frame off show quality restoration.
The trip up from Liberal was uneventful, and your Ford is anxiously awaiting its restoration!
spare tire shelf |
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rear floor carpeting |
kick panel under the dash |
header panel over the windshield |
door panel |
no floor mats are currently available for the 60 hp standard automobile, so we finished the front in carpeting. |
heel pad. |
Kick panel and firewall pad |
driver's rear interior quarter |
driver's door pillar. note the driver's courtesy light wire |
The Ford is currently at Goldfield Trim & Upholstery in Lindsborg, KS. Owner Gary Martin and I were classmates at McPherson College in the Auto Restoration Program. The pictures below come from Goldfield and show their excellent work.
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photo courtesy Goldfield Trim Seat track Before and after |
photo courtesy Goldfield Trim |
Headliner installed. Rear window fabric will be trimmed after the hardware for the window garnish moldings are ready for installation |
photo courtesy Goldfield Trim The Ford has been delivered to the upholstery shop and they've got it read for trim. |
photo courtesy Goldfield Trim Passenger rear quarter trim panel construction. The dark material is 1/8 inch dense padding. The light lines are areas of padding cut away to produce recessed troughs that expose the door panel backing board. |
photo courtesy Goldfield Trim Passenger rear quarter trim panel with mohair covering fabric. The recessed areas are not stitched, but are glued in the recessed troughs. This duplicates as close as possible the original style of panel construction. |
head light buckets and other parts in black |
Assembling the windshield prior to painting the frame |
making patterns for the toeboards |
distributor detailed and set up on the Sun machine. |
Gauges in the woodgrained dash |
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engine and transmission installed into the frame.... |
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Generator checked out and prepped for paint |
engine and transmission installed into the frame.... |
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engine and transmission installed into the frame.... |
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dashboard woodgraining |
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1000 grit west sanding. |
1st polish following 3000 grit sanding. |
doors and fenders in the booth. |
Front brake assembly |
Rear brake assembly |
Wetsanding for paint polishing. 1st step is 1000 grit to knock out the orange peel. |
The engine and transmission are reunited and ready to be set into the frame.
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The rear axle assembly and numerous small chassis parts getting black paint. |
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Painting the frame! After making sure everything is straight, and final prep, it hangs upside down in the booth for paint. Here it is in epoxy primer. |
Chris applying the urethane single stage black. This image is taken through a window in the paint booth; Chris isn't standing in a huge cloud of paint. |
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A diagonal push with the porto-power pushes the frame horn back into place and some gently hammering with a body spoon lowers the pucker. |
With the bulk of the bodywork now done, we begin to turn our attention to the chassis and components. Here's the rear brake setup in a "before" shot. |
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After all the bodywork, the panels are mocked up to insure that the fit is appropriate prior to preparation of color. All the hard bodywork is now done. |
Moving the body over to the wagon signifies that we are finished with the fit and finish of the body panels, and are ready for the final priming/sanding prior to paint! |
Fitting the decklid with it's new hinges and incorporating the installation of the lower tail panel. |
as with many reproductions, the tail panel fit required us to actually cut the panel in half and fit each side seperately. The panel was then re-welded together at the center. Here the right and left seams and the center weld are roughed in with an application of lead. |
The deck lid was broken at the location of the support bracket, and the years of use while broken considerably distorted the frame and skin. We applied a slight lead coat to re-establish the fit to the body. Here the panel is in "tin" |
Reuniting the trunk lid frame with the skin after applying new sound deadener. |
Test fitting the new tool tray at the rear of the trunk floor. So far this looks like an excellent reproduction. |
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New metal tacked into place |
Welding finish and transmission cover set in place |
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Welding in the new partial floorboards |
The "before" rusty floorboard on the driver's side. |
The floorboard cut out. |
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Chris is leading the weld seams of the patch installed into the passenger front fender |
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The wheel arch of the passenger fender was previously re-welded and completely worn out and unrepairable. We build a simple hammer form to accurately create a new arch. |
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Here's the new formed arch with the metal properly turned as original. |
The framework of the deck lid was cracked and poorly welded together at the area of the prop rod. |
In order to properly repair and reshape the decklid, we seperated the framework from the skin. This will allow us to make the correct shape to fit the body, clean the rust between the frame and skin, and properly re-apply the sound deadening material as was factory installed. |
Straightened, cleaned, and primed inner framework. |
Front Fender Repair |
Numerous areas of the fenders were fatiqued, cracked, and previously welded. |
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Front end ready for disassembly |
Spring shackle bolts and bushings were just a little worn out! |
Off the car as a unit and ready for disassembly. |
Similar damage on the left side rear. |
tacked and ready to weld. |
test fit on the car. |
Fabricated patch welded on |
The patch as shown from the outside; it still needs to be trimmed |
The original reinforcement bracket is repaired and test fitted to the patch. |
Epoxy. |
Passenger rear fender damage previously covered over in lead |
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After cleaning and etching, the metal is coated in self-etching primer for an excellent adhesion of primer coats. |
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Tacked, and ready to weld complete. |
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Rust damage at the base of the passenger quarter |
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Patch fabricated and ready to install |
A couple more picks with the bullseye, and the dent is gone. |
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There was a dent to the left of the rear window. This is the kind of dent that repairs faster than it take to mix up a batch of polyester filler to fill it. |
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After cutting out the rusted metal on the driver's side, the corrosion that was behind the metal was exposed to be cleaned out. Dirt, crud, and sand from the blasting of the body was also trapped behind the metal. |
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Rust damage and a broken fender bolt on the lower passenger cowl. |
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The 60 horsepower flathead V-8 engine lifted out with relative ease |
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Less and less of the car remains intact, while the number of boxes that are carefully inventoried slowly grows..... |
The last of the interior components are coming out, and the dirt and grime is cleaned up. Other than the front floorboards, the rest of the floor looks pretty good. |
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More photo documentation shows the carpeted heel pad for the rear seat passengers, and the carpeting on the driveshaft hump. There's also evidence of a high water mark at some time in the car's past. |
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The tear down of the car is a methodical process of careful organization so that all components of the car are stored and organized in a manner that will allow for a smooth flow of work. This keeps the restoration of your Ford efficient. |
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Documentation of your Ford includes careful sanding of the 2nd paint job to reveal the original straw yellow pinstripe. This gives us the correct color, width, and position of the stripe for when we re-apply it. In this way the restoration of your Ford will be authentic and concours correct. |
